Your First Step: The Adapter

Here’s the deal with 2008 and prior legacy Samsung 3D Ready DLP models.

Samsung was one of the first companies to build 3D TVs before much 3D content was available. The format they chose to use for processing 3D content was called “checkerboard”, and this was fine until 3D content makers like the movie industry, cable networks, and Blu-ray player manufacturers found “checkerboard” to use too much bandwidth…so they went with other methods, most commonly top & bottom, and side-by-side.

As an owner of a Samsung 2008 or prior model, you have to convert the 3D content from the other methods into “checkerboard”. This requires an adapter included in the 3DC-100S Kit (available on Amazon). The only other easy method to work around not buying the adapter is to use certain Panasonic Blu-ray players, those models are:  DMP-BDT100, DMP-BDT110, DMP-BDT210, DMP-BDT215, DMP-BDT220, DMP-BDT300, DMP-BDT310, DMP-BDT321, and the DMP-BDT350 (discontinued). Once you have your 3D content coming into your Mitsubishi TV in the required “checkerboard” format the next step is selecting 3D Glasses.

Finally, there is one other option…and that is to use a computer to convert the 3D content into “checkerboard” format. Unfortunately this not realistic for most people due to the complexity of setting it up, and we can not provide support for this option.

Your Second Step: Selecting Your 3D Glasses

Once you have 3D content coming into your DLP 3D Ready HDTV in the necessary “checkerboard” format using one of the methods mentioned above, you will then need to purchase compatible 3D Glasses. You currently have 2 options:

1. DLP 3D Glasses or
2. IR 3D Glasses

In almost every case, we recommend IR 3D Glasses. We feel it’s only right to steer customers away from DLP, since it doesn’t work very well. Two of the biggest problems people report with using DLP glasses are:

1. You can lose sync very easily with DLP for various reasons, such as…
• sunlight interference
• indoor lighting interference
• simply turning your head away
2. DLP can produce rainbow effects on the screen

Your Final Step: The IR Emitter

When using IR glasses you will also need an IR emitter (different than the adapter mentioned above). This IR emitter is what allows your IR glasses to sync or “connect” your Samsung DLP 3D TV.

You have a few options and we recommend you opt for our High Power IR Emitter…or, if you want, you can settle for the Mitsubishi factory IR emitter that comes in the 3DC-1000 Kit or the 3DC-100S Kit (both available on Amazon). This second option requires you to buy an adapter and 2 pairs of glasses. They are also very expensive and can be difficult to find in stock at times.

In addition our High Power IR Emitter is much stronger so you can sit and watch TV where you want and not lose sync like the Mitsubishi emitter.

Here’s the deal with 2009 to 2010 Samsung 3D TV models.

In 2009 Samsung stopped making DLP models and switched to LED and LCD flat screens. They used a built in IR emitter and stopped using “checkerboard” format to make things easier for customers…so all you need to buy are IR glasses.

Here’s the deal with 2011 and beyond Samsung 3D TVs.

In 2011 Samsung switched from using infrared (IR) to using Bluetooth to sync their 3D Glasses. What this means you can not use any of the IR 3D glasses that came with the older Samsung 3D TVs. However we offer the G5 Universal 3D glasses with Duo-Sync Technology™ that will sync with both IR and Bluetooth 3D TVs.